The Beautiful Textures Texture Manageability System (which will be TMS from now on because that is such a mouthful!) is marketed as a system to help straighten your natural hair 'naturally' for longer - 4-6 weeks and promises that your hair will revert to its natural state afterwards.
Many naturals view this product as totally natural and since it was endorsed by Chime Edwards who has beautiful hair, it has gained in appeal for some.
1. Is this a natural system?
2. Is this a BKT (Brazilian Keratin Treatment)
3. Will my hair revert?
4. Do you get good straight results?
The Short Answers:
1. Umm, if you consider that everything made in the lab has a natural origin, then yes. IF you consider products like pantene, herbal essences etc as non-natural then the TMS leave in conditioner that does the work is REALLY non-natural.
2. Yes it is a BKT - a formaldehyde - free BKT that pretty much has a formaldehyde like ingredient in it.
3. Yes some reversion will occur, some permanent changes may occur. *There are some anecdotal reports of hair not fully reverting (see comments)
4. As it is a BKT, yes the combination of breaking bonds in hair and heat should give you 'straighter' hair.
The Long Answer:
The TMS kit contains 4 products and I am skipping to the juicy part which is the 'Inner Active Leave In Conditioner'. The other 3 products are fairly standard shampoos and conditioner. The 'Inner Active Leave In Conditioner is applied to shampooed hair, allowed to sit for 20 minutes and then heat is applied to straighten the hair. So what is in it?
Inner-Active Leave-In Conditioner Ingredients: Aqua , Glyoxyloyl Carbocysteine , Glyoxyloyl Keratin Amino Acids , Shea Butter Aminodpropyltrimonium Chloride , CyclopentaSiloxane , dimethiconol , dimethicone crosspolymer , Silanetriol , panthenol , Isopropyl Palmitate , methylchloroisothiazolinone , methylisothiazolinone
What is Glyoxyloyl Carbocysteine? Try and say that 3 times fast :)
- This is a common ingredient in formaldehyde free 'safe' keratin treatments (aka SKTs)
- Although it is not formaldehyde, it does have very many similarities to formaldehyde
|Structures of the main ingredient in Beautiful Textures TMS - a formaldehyde free Brazilian keratin treatment and formaldehyde found in some Brazilian keratin treatments|
|Similarities highlighed in green between glyoxyloyl carbocysteine found in TMS and formaldehyde found in some BKTs|
How exactly does this ingredient work?
You may or may not be surprised that I could not find a research paper on this ingredient. The general mechanism of how it works is not published but it is generally thought to work in the same way formaldehyde does (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, pp144-148,2012). Here is a little diagram for you!
|Image of how BKTs break and rearrange bonds in hair|
In short, for the TMS system, the glyoxyloyl carbocysteine is used to break bonds in hair and the glyoxyloyl amino acids help to reform some of these bonds although not usually in the same way that they were broken. This is thought to be why the hair can stretch out more as the bonds are less restricted than they normally would be.
So I know the next question is it (glyoxyloyl carbocysteine) safe?
Formaldehyde is definitely more potent as it much smaller in size so may spread very easily but as far as chemical activity, I think that as they act in a very similar way on hair, they may well act in a similar way on cells. Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen because of its ability to restructure proteins which is a worry for human cells in general as they are often composed of proteins and make proteins.
Low levels of formaldehyde are considered safe for use in preservatives but the high volumes found in some BKTs are not. I cannot say definitively whether this ingredient is safe or not but if push came to shove, I would personally side on the not safe.
What if I have used it and now worry it may not be safe?
Just stop using it, don't worry about it, you live you learn!
What if I want to keep using it?
Hey, we all have free choice!
Is the Beautiful Textures TMS system, the only one using this ingredient?
No it is pretty common, also goes by the name oxoacetamide carbocysteine. Other manufacturers do use it and it is commonly marketed as a SKT (safe keratin treatment). Examples include Kera-luxe, Keratherapy, Diora. So if you are in the market for a BKT, shop around!
Image Credit - Pub Chem for Chemical Structures