tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-83563650238236033032024-03-10T10:12:28.634+00:00THE NATURAL HAVENSCIENCE AND NATURAL HAIRJchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03983132094574128087noreply@blogger.comBlogger566125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8356365023823603303.post-42306201444775041032020-05-29T13:32:00.001+01:002020-05-29T16:12:05.642+01:00What is African Black Soap? <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5xSPTP5xCZ8/UrBQPwIeS4I/AAAAAAAABNM/xFgxSgE0xs0/s1600/what_is_african_black_soap.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5xSPTP5xCZ8/UrBQPwIeS4I/AAAAAAAABNM/xFgxSgE0xs0/s1600/what_is_african_black_soap.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Here is a reader question on African black soap,<br />
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<i>'I have been transitioning for the last year and recently came across a number of YouTubers who use and rave about <span class="il">African</span> <span class="il">Black</span> Soap. I really like that it makes my hair so soft and manageable when washing (and squeaky clean although I'm sure this means the natural oils are stripped). </i></div>
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<i>That leads me to my question.</i></div>
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<i>1. What exactly is in <span class="il">African</span> <span class="il">black</span> soap?</i></div>
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<i>2. What in the soap makes my hair so soft?</i></div>
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<i>3. Since it's so squeaky clean, should I be worried about damage/dryness?'</i><br />
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<b>1. What exactly is in African black soap</b></div>
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The process of making a soap <i>(known as saponification) </i>involves two simple ingredients - oil and lye (sodium hydroxide typically). </div>
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African black soap is also made from oil and lye. The big difference is the lye is not sodium hydroxide but is instead derived from plant ashes (potash). This plant ash is rich in potassium carbonate which is a fairly gentle lye compared to sodium hydroxide <i>(Bioresource Technology, pp 95-97, 2001)</i>. The plants used to make the potash do vary from community to community across West Africa but are all natural, local and in high supply, for example plantain skins, cocoa pods, palm leaves, ground nut shells, etc.<br />
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<b>2. What is in the soap that makes hair so soft?</b></div>
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I would have to add a disclaimer here that some people do not find <i><b>any</b></i> type of soap to be soft and moisturising to skin. Soap will always have a high pH and some people are more sensitive to that. </div>
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However, if you are looking for differences between African black soap and other natural traditionally made soaps then there are two stand out differences<br />
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</i> <i>a) the plant ash lye is not a particularly strong base compared to sodium hydroxide . This may mean the oil is not saponified to the same extent allowing African black soap to have a higher uncoverted oil content (possibly more moisturising soap)</i><br />
<i>b) unrefined oil is used for the African black soap process compared to most traditional soaps that generally use refined oils.</i><br />
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<b>3. If hair is squeaky clean, should you worry about damage/dryness</b><br />
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There are many if's to answer this question<br />
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</i> <i>1. If you are going to follow up with a conditioner, temporary dryness from a shampoo is not generally a big deal.</i><br />
<i>2. If you find your hair squeaky clean and soft but not dry, there is nothing to worry about</i><br />
<i>3. If you routinely find that your hair is squeaky clean but dry and rough to the touch, you should probably consider using that product (soap or shampoo) for occasional clarifying rather than routine washing. </i><br />
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</i> <i><br />
</i> <i><b>Are you a fan of African black soap or have you found it to be drying just like any other soap?</b></i></div><div><br /></div><div>Original publication date: 17/12/2013<br />
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Jchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03983132094574128087noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8356365023823603303.post-1376233394965059462020-05-23T18:59:00.001+01:002020-05-23T21:55:08.133+01:00Curl clumping in type 4c hair - Hair Conditioner vs Bentonite Clay<div></div><div><br /></div><div>I am trying to answer as many of your questions as possible and one that frequently comes up after I did the<i><b> <a href="http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2014/02/can-you-really-wash-your-hair-with.html">clay cleansing post</a></b></i> is about curl clumping with bentonite clay. Many naturals do report curl clumping after using bentonite clay and having purchased some for the cleansing experiment, why not try it for a clumping experiment?</div>
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<b>The Experiment</b><br />
- My own hair - 7 inch segment cut from the crown area<i><b> <a href="http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2014/09/science-experiment-in-progress.html">(details here)</a></b></i>. This cut is selected for this experiment as all the hair comes from the same general area and should therefore clump if it can. Hair is kinky curly with very tight coils. I am not a fan of hair typing but most would call it 4c hair.<br />
-Hair unbraided and detangled first then shampooed (2 mins), rinsed (2 mins), conditioner applied (1 hour with heat) and imaged before being rinsed (2 mins) and applying bentonite clay suspended in water applied (20 mins) and one final rinse (2 mins). Leave in applied to soaking wet hair followed by gel (except in one case where no gel is used. Hair then dried and imaged.<br />
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<b>Results</b><br />
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<b>1. Detangling and Shrinkage</b><br />
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As a starting point I unbraided and detangled the hair first after misting the section with water which induced shrinkage This is an image to illustrate to you the level of shrinkage that is normal for my hair .Yes 7 inches to just 2.5 inches - Fascinatingly this 2.5 mark does not change even when my hair is longer. <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3pgv6yJNnYk/VB8KvMcLdtI/AAAAAAAABjM/KR4GStulSI8/s1600/shrinkage_natural_hair.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3pgv6yJNnYk/VB8KvMcLdtI/AAAAAAAABjM/KR4GStulSI8/s1600/shrinkage_natural_hair.jpg" /></a></div>
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<b>2. Hair Conditioner Results</b><br />
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For some naturals, conditioning hair is sufficient to create curl clumping. For my hair this is not the case. The hair does start to form coils and hang but not clump.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pJ5mbnxoKSU/VB8KuJri1SI/AAAAAAAABi8/aAX-aF472Hw/s1600/hair_not_clumping_hair_conditioner.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pJ5mbnxoKSU/VB8KuJri1SI/AAAAAAAABi8/aAX-aF472Hw/s1600/hair_not_clumping_hair_conditioner.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hair conditioner does not induce curl clumping on my 4c hair</td></tr>
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<b>3. Bentonite Clay Results</b><br />
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Bentonite clay in the case of my hair did induce curl or if you wish coil clumping. The hair is elongated from the 2.5 inch full shrinkage to around 4 inches.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x2LwCPfMgDQ/VB8KuPkYiaI/AAAAAAAABjA/8rPbeYgg9uA/s1600/clumping_hair_bentonite_clay.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x2LwCPfMgDQ/VB8KuPkYiaI/AAAAAAAABjA/8rPbeYgg9uA/s1600/clumping_hair_bentonite_clay.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bentonite clay curl clumping on 4c hair (clay still on the hair at this point)</td></tr>
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<b>4. Do the clumped curls stay?</b><br />
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After the clay is rinsed off, a leave in conditioner was applied in one case and in the second a leave in conditioner with gel. The end result was the same in both cases at least from my view point. Some of the curls stay clumped but quite a bit of frizz also developed. The gel gives extra hold allowing the hair to stay clumped for longer even when handled but the hair with no hair gel will frizz up faster. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WTivGDIXozw/VB8KuF-qbII/AAAAAAAABjY/_G-u6di23Xw/s1600/comparison_natural%2Bhair%2Bwithout%2Bgel%2Band%2Bwith%2Bgel.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WTivGDIXozw/VB8KuF-qbII/AAAAAAAABjY/_G-u6di23Xw/s1600/comparison_natural%2Bhair%2Bwithout%2Bgel%2Band%2Bwith%2Bgel.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dry hair post bentonite clay rinse</td></tr>
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<b>5. Is that really 4c hair? </b><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZuZ153p0Tv4/VB8KunXN1LI/AAAAAAAABjQ/TTn0yTmBsZM/s1600/natural_hair_4c_shrinkage.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZuZ153p0Tv4/VB8KunXN1LI/AAAAAAAABjQ/TTn0yTmBsZM/s1600/natural_hair_4c_shrinkage.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">4c hair - full shrinkage</td></tr>
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Just another shot of the full shrinkage to remind you that it is 4c hair.<br />
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<i>Additional Notes: </i><br />
<i>Conditioning time: In practise, I never usually use heat or condition my own hair for extended times 20- 30 mins at most, but in
the interest of doing what many naturals do, I chose to apply heat and
extend the conditioning time to the swatches</i><br />
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<i>Products: Johnson and Johnson baby shampoo, L'Oreal Eversleek smoothing conditioner, Bentonite Clay from Sheabutter cottage , Kinky Curly Knot Today Leave In, Fruit of the Earth Aloe Vera Gel</i><br />
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<div><b>Please note that these results are for my hair. Your hair may behave differently which is perfectly fine. For my hair, bentonite clay does induce curl clumping, the same may not be true for everyone!</b> <b>What are your results? Have you tried bentonite clay?</b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b>Original publication date: 21/09/2014<br /></b></div>
<br />Jchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03983132094574128087noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8356365023823603303.post-34313690606115707852020-05-23T05:30:00.002+01:002020-05-23T22:25:29.763+01:00Science Experiment in ProgressGuess what! I chopped off some of my hair. I was tired of the length and was getting very lazy on taking care of it so I cut off 6-7 inches. I was initially just chopping it off randomly when my hubby told me, 'Are you going to keep that for your hair science experiments?'<br />
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Ah, what a good man! I then decided to braid it up and chop the 'tails' off and keep them of course.......for science! I am right this minute running a scientific experiment on some of that hair!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2ea0KbavYR0/VBrjCqOb4cI/AAAAAAAABik/01JDa53LbM4/s1600/african_natural_hair_science.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2ea0KbavYR0/VBrjCqOb4cI/AAAAAAAABik/01JDa53LbM4/s1600/african_natural_hair_science.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Braided sections from the crown area</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FLgAgHNQvKA/VBrg7QVZExI/AAAAAAAABic/zrREtkWgImM/s1600/black_hair_science.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FLgAgHNQvKA/VBrg7QVZExI/AAAAAAAABic/zrREtkWgImM/s1600/black_hair_science.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Experiment currently in progress!</td></tr>
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</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Side note: No I am not bald, I still have 8-10 ish inches after that cut. However bald is cute too!</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Originally published : 18/09/2014<br /></b></div><b>
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<br />Jchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03983132094574128087noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8356365023823603303.post-18878809184576568002019-01-23T16:16:00.002+00:002019-01-23T16:16:59.119+00:00January Review: Natural Hair Under the MicroscopeI am not actively blogging here any more but I love that you are still here! I thought I might do a summary post every month, so that I can point you in the direction of things from the archive that you may not have looked at in a while.<br />
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My first review for January is all about natural hair under the microscope. <b>These are just sample images and there are loads and loads of interesting and wonderful pictures which I have linked!</b><br />
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<b>HAIR STRUCTURE - NATURAL HAIR UNDER THE MICROSCOPE </b><br />
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1. If you are curious about what natural hair looks like when magnified under the microscope, I have some great images! See my type 4abcxyz under the microcope- a tale of kinks and oil - <b><a href="http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2011/10/hair-under-microscope.html">click here to see more</a></b><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3LoL5KLZ3Lc/TqVubQRhIrI/AAAAAAAAA48/mxXLS-tXKtc/s400/hair+kink.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3LoL5KLZ3Lc/TqVubQRhIrI/AAAAAAAAA48/mxXLS-tXKtc/s400/hair+kink.jpg" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My hair - natural, African and kinks galore!</td></tr>
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2. Did you know what grey/gray hair (or white hair) is actually just completely transparent, essentially does not have melanin anymore - <b><a href="http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2011/11/white-hair-under-microscope.html">click here to see more</a></b><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jlCHRMw2E40/TrgUUY5KL_I/AAAAAAAAA6Q/1h_2_vG4R4E/s400/white_hair_transparent.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jlCHRMw2E40/TrgUUY5KL_I/AAAAAAAAA6Q/1h_2_vG4R4E/s400/white_hair_transparent.jpg" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grey hair - White hair - Gray hair - Fully Transparent</td></tr>
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3. If you are curious about caucasian hair - <b><a href="http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2012/01/caucasian-hair-under-microscope.html">click here to see more</a></b><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5NVOOnHX144/Tx1tZMgrNdI/AAAAAAAAA78/qZaicnt36a8/s400/dark_brown_caucasian_hair_end_microscope.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5NVOOnHX144/Tx1tZMgrNdI/AAAAAAAAA78/qZaicnt36a8/s400/dark_brown_caucasian_hair_end_microscope.jpg" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sharp cut from recently trimmed Caucasian hair</td></tr>
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<b>THE SCIENCE OF HAIR DAMAGE - KNOTS AND MORE</b><br />
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1. I think hair damage really looks dramatic under the microscope, at least to me. Hair ends, splits and knots -<b><a href="http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2011/10/hair-under-microscope-hair-ends-damage.html"> click here to see more</a></b><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Cvl0vTZCVqA/TqgbWqdcdDI/AAAAAAAAA5k/lT7VVCd7DkQ/s400/midshaft+split.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Cvl0vTZCVqA/TqgbWqdcdDI/AAAAAAAAA5k/lT7VVCd7DkQ/s400/midshaft+split.jpg" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A mid shaft split in natural hair</td></tr>
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<br />2. Do you really need scissors to cut hair? - <b><a href="http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2014/02/do-you-need-hair-shears-to-cut-hair.html">click here to read more</a></b><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X-xkoh_glng/UvoddcRWktI/AAAAAAAABR8/Bwz5GGmoHe4/s1600/african_hair_microscope_cut_shears.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X-xkoh_glng/UvoddcRWktI/AAAAAAAABR8/Bwz5GGmoHe4/s1600/african_hair_microscope_cut_shears.jpg" data-original-height="785" data-original-width="882" height="355" width="400" /></a></div>
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3. I am cheating with this one, it is strictly not speaking a microscope image but in the spirit of hair damage, it is a guide as to when you should trim your hair - <b><a href="http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2010/01/trimming-how-much-and-how-often.html">click here</a></b><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_GkQ08Dsvo30/S0dVT_gGoMI/AAAAAAAAAXA/_W5jJAvk9ng/s400/taper.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_GkQ08Dsvo30/S0dVT_gGoMI/AAAAAAAAAXA/_W5jJAvk9ng/s400/taper.png" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="397" /></a></div>
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<b>I hope you enjoyed this review and I truly hope that this is worth your attention! See you in a month or so for the next review! </b><br />
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<br />Jchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03983132094574128087noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8356365023823603303.post-76113614368807182532018-06-08T21:00:00.000+01:002018-06-08T21:01:58.541+01:00Curly vs Kinky : What is the difference?*This is a repost that was originally published on 29/05/2011*<br />
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I finally got my 3d programmer (otherwise known as<b> <a href="http://thenaturalhaven.blogspot.com/2010/10/natural-hair-is-very-unnatural.html">hubby</a></b>) to draw out some things for me! The big question is what is the difference between curly and kinky hair? Many people do not seem to distinguish between curly and kinky hair but structurally there is a rather major difference. <br />
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<b style="color: red;">Now kinky hair can also be curly but curly hair is not always necessarily kinky!</b> <i> (Reader question from Ehizele on why some hair is more 'breakable' will follow soon!!)</i><br />
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Curly hair is simply a spiral or wave while kinky hair has a <b>torsion twist </b><i>(which can be felt as a permanent crimp) </i>where the hair strand turns around itself (see the diagram).<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3nB4GYaXudk/TeLBGAq6z_I/AAAAAAAAAxU/Nn4PIdatgoo/s1600/twistcurl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3nB4GYaXudk/TeLBGAq6z_I/AAAAAAAAAxU/Nn4PIdatgoo/s1600/twistcurl.jpg" /></a></div>
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<b>The torsion of kinky hair is basically the strand twisting around itself</b>. The simplest analogy would be the wringing of a cloth where you turn one side clockwise and the other anticlockwise.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rCqieRL0xEo/TeLBnTT_hcI/AAAAAAAAAxY/PrLxzli6DF8/s1600/torsion.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rCqieRL0xEo/TeLBnTT_hcI/AAAAAAAAAxY/PrLxzli6DF8/s1600/torsion.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <span style="font-size: x-small;"> <span style="font-size: small;"> Torsion</span></span></td></tr>
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Now kinky hair can be curly and have <b>the same spiral turns in addition to the torsion twist</b>. This creates the dominant type of hair seen among people of African origin - the kinky curly hair. Going by the first analogy on a large scale think of it like wringing a sheet and then winding it around a large rod to form the curl.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-54ff1uRMI1M/TeLC2Oh8LeI/AAAAAAAAAxk/yEpy3NwdVHk/s1600/kinkycurly.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-54ff1uRMI1M/TeLC2Oh8LeI/AAAAAAAAAxk/yEpy3NwdVHk/s1600/kinkycurly.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Source:</span><br />
Images modelled on SEM images in (<a href="http://sylvester.bth.rwth-aachen.de/dissertationen/2004/094/04_094.pdf">PhD Thesis by Jutta Maria Quadflieg</a>)Jchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03983132094574128087noreply@blogger.com47tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8356365023823603303.post-36917901459110816572017-01-13T23:09:00.001+00:002017-01-13T23:10:30.864+00:00African Threading with ExtensionsAs you may know, I am not a huge proponent of extensions as a permanent style option - <b><a href="http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2010/08/natural-hair-top-tip-abandon-extensions.html">here is why</a></b> - but I do think they are great for short term styling (i.e when you want to change it up). I found this great video on African threading, but here is the twist, with extensions! It comes from the aficionado of African threading Nadine of Girls Love Your Curls on youtube. I might do this one, just purely out of curiosity!<br />
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<br />Jchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03983132094574128087noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8356365023823603303.post-78897315567124166952016-12-13T13:18:00.004+00:002016-12-13T23:40:48.623+00:00Is Rice Water the answer to Hair Breakage?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jl5yUaVBZvY/WE_w88KT5eI/AAAAAAAABsc/CmOHhtKCQ3k6HXYJdXy6Cy4e0q3aY5E2gCLcB/s1600/rice%2Bwater%2Bfor%2Bnatural%2Bhair%2Bscience.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jl5yUaVBZvY/WE_w88KT5eI/AAAAAAAABsc/CmOHhtKCQ3k6HXYJdXy6Cy4e0q3aY5E2gCLcB/s320/rice%2Bwater%2Bfor%2Bnatural%2Bhair%2Bscience.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<b>Vicki asks 'Do you know anything about rice water and it's benefits to hair?'</b><br />
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I did some research and here is the science on rice water and hair.<br />
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<b>Q: What is rice water?</b><br />
Place some rice in water, boil it a little bit, the starch is released into the water making the water milky. Sieve off the rice and there you have it - rice water!<br />
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<b>Q: Is it beneficial to hair?</b><br />
The scientific answer is I don't know. Unfortunately many people quote this particular journal article from <a href="http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00605_3.x/abstract">The International Journal of Cosmetic Science in 2010</a> but they are really over-interpreting the article.<br />
<br />
<b>Q: What does the article say?</b><br />
It is looking back to hair practices from the Heian Period in Japan. Wikipedia tells me that Heian Period is from 794-1185! It is therefore probably a study of what people said rather than an actual current study with controlled strength testing or combability tests.<br />
<br />
<b>Q: But I have read elsewhere that the science said that rice water increased elasticity and reduced friction when combing?</b><br />
Yes, it says so in the abstract of the article, but again, please note that the article does not say that scientists carried out any actual experiments, it just says they looked at the practices of Japanese courtiers from the Heian Period. I am assuming they therefore have some type of evidence e.g written text from the period.<br />
<b><br />
</b> <b>Q: So does that mean rice water is not useful?</b><br />
No, it just means it is another word of mouth common cultural practice. For example you will find many people who will swear that castor oil rubbed into your edges will cause that hair to grow back. There is no scientific evidence for that <i>(as in no one has done the experiment yet, not that it does not work)</i>, but there are many word of mouth <i>(anecdotal reports)</i> statements that people consider as evidence that it is a possible solution.<br />
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The story from Asia is that giving hair a rinse with rice water gives it strength and elasticity. This is not scientifically evidenced but if it is something you want to try, you can do so, it may or may not work.<br />
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<b>Q: Is this therefore only a solution for Asian hair?</b><br />
From the studies I have seen, hair whether of African, European or Asian origin is structurally the same. Of course we are all humans of the same species so it makes sense that hair is hair is hair. There are differences too e.g some hair is thicker, curlier, lighter or darker but ultimately, hair in general regardless of origin has the same basic structure of a cortex surrrounded by a cuticle layer. All this harping on is to say, a rice water wash on Asian hair would probably have a similar effect on African American hair for example.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M6fs_KjsYoE/ShwH6Ac1t7I/AAAAAAAAANA/sZCfi8DNqEImt2lYZNIIVESnWbTP06DLQCPcB/s1600/hair%2Bstructure.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="165" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M6fs_KjsYoE/ShwH6Ac1t7I/AAAAAAAAANA/sZCfi8DNqEImt2lYZNIIVESnWbTP06DLQCPcB/s400/hair%2Bstructure.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The basic structure of hair (not all hair has a medulla though!)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Q: How do you use rice water</b><br />
Here is a video I found, basically apply to hair, concentrate on most damaged area, leave on for around 30 minutes and proceed on to wash and condition as normal.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/po0LM1cTIV8" width="560"></iframe><br />
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<i>Image Credit: <a href="https://www.shutterstock.com/g/ThamKC">ThamKC Shutterstock</a></i><br />
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<br />Jchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03983132094574128087noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8356365023823603303.post-18354413435239693412016-02-09T11:36:00.000+00:002016-02-09T11:58:58.751+00:00Bentonite Clay Safety: FDA, Lead and Alikay Naturals<i><b>**Updated to add Alikay Naturals response** </b></i><br />
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I was alerted to this <a href="http://www.fda.gov/Drugs/DrugSafety/ucm483838.htm"><i><b>FDA release</b></i></a> courtesy of a blog I follow -<i><b> <a href="http://abountifulthing.blogspot.co.uk/2016/02/oh-dear.html">A Bountiful Thing</a>.</b></i> The press release from the FDA is warning consumers not to use Alikay Naturals Bentonite Me Baby Clay. The product is sold as 100% bentonite clay but FDA testing found that it contained high levels of lead.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Vl-sTMsCePw/VrnOsypugKI/AAAAAAAABrs/m_0lvnbH5kM/s1600/alikay_bentonite_me_baby.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Vl-sTMsCePw/VrnOsypugKI/AAAAAAAABrs/m_0lvnbH5kM/s1600/alikay_bentonite_me_baby.jpg" /></a></div>
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This is quite serious as lead can poison most tissues of the human body including nerves, kidneys and the reproductive system. The effect on children is much worse with possible effects on brain development.<br />
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Ladies (and the odd gent who may be reading this), please be careful about the products you are purchasing. There is a trend of purchasing natural products as they are deemed to be safer or less toxic but please do your homework..........<b>this may not be the only contaminated brand, it just happens to be the first one identified by the FDA.</b><br />
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For your safety when purchasing bentonite clay, consider buying a certified clay which will come with a breakdown of the trace elements in the clay or a food grade clay. None of these measures can guarantee a lead free product but are good measures to take.<br />
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Alikay Naturals have issued their own press release (link in the sources below) stating in brief that they consider the product safe but it should not be ingested without medical advice or used on children. They have also committed to doing their own independent tests. <br />
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<i><b>Sources</b></i><br />
<a href="http://www.fda.gov/Drugs/DrugSafety/ucm483838.htm"><i><b>FDA - http://www.fda.gov/Drugs/DrugSafety/ucm483838.htm</b></i></a><br />
<a href="http://www.southend.nhs.uk/pathology-handbook/test-directory/test-directory-l-index/lead/"><i><b>Lead Poisoning - http://www.southend.nhs.uk/pathology-handbook/test-directory/test-directory-l-index/lead/</b></i></a><br />
<i><b><a href="http://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/the-clear-reality-of-alikay-naturals-bentonite-me-baby-300212400.html">Alikay Naturals response - http://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/the-clear-reality-of-alikay-naturals-bentonite-me-baby-300212400.html </a></b></i><br />
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Jchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03983132094574128087noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8356365023823603303.post-28184301221578180132016-02-04T16:57:00.003+00:002016-02-04T17:04:37.688+00:00Pregnancy, miscarriage and women's health<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OCi6JqhaEVw/Vj4asdb-CgI/AAAAAAAABqs/iBnBMSq98ZA/s1600/baby_hand.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OCi6JqhaEVw/Vj4asdb-CgI/AAAAAAAABqs/iBnBMSq98ZA/s200/baby_hand.jpg" width="200" /></a>So, I am back on the blogging scene again. You may have seen this post - <i><b><a href="http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2015/11/i-am-back-and-i-have-been-busy.html">here </a></b></i>- about my little sleep thief who I love with all my heart! I do want to, however, talk about my journey and all the many highs, lows, worries and joys.<br />
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Over the coming weeks and months, I will let you in on my story and crucially the lessons I have learned along the way, so that you become an advocate for your own health or strengthen your advocacy.<br />
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I have miscarried at 13 weeks and then again at 5weeks though the 13 week one was much more real to me. It is at the third time of asking that I now have my little girl (<i>she's a girl for those who asked!</i>). I have a lot to say including how I thought I was dying while complications were happening and for some reason thought I should look at the time lol.........I still don't know why the time mattered.<br />
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Anyway, if you are interested, this will be an additional topic to the blog and further but it will not be all doom and gloom. As the happy and incurable optimist that I am expect a good dose of fun as well as of course tons of science.Jchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03983132094574128087noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8356365023823603303.post-59069611263684186972015-11-20T17:42:00.002+00:002015-11-20T17:42:49.911+00:00DIY Dandruff Treatment: Glycerin/Glycerol<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dSBWtDfxzIg/Vk9bKhvKMwI/AAAAAAAABrE/JNcN0Gq_kOs/s1600/glycerine_hair_dandruff_natural_treatment.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dSBWtDfxzIg/Vk9bKhvKMwI/AAAAAAAABrE/JNcN0Gq_kOs/s320/glycerine_hair_dandruff_natural_treatment.jpg" width="244" /></a></div>
Dandruff is a huge issue for many naturals and I am always looking out for new science articles on it. This DIY recipe is based on a study done in Thailand and published quite recently <i>(Skin Med, pp 155-161, 2014)</i>.<br />
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<b>The Recipe</b><br />
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<b>DIY 10% Glycerin Scalp Leave On Lotion</b><br />
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10 ml Glycerin/Glycerine<br />
90 ml base* of your choice<br />
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*Base can be water or a leave in conditioner of your choice. For a water base add 1 drop of sunflower oil to the final mix. For a leave in conditoner base, avoid high oil containing leave ins especially if it is a natural oil - <a href="http://Can you please explain what that is and how I can remove it from the listings. ">this is why</a><br />
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<b>Method</b><br />
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1. Shampoo your hair and condition it as you would normally. <br />
2. Apply the DIY 10% Glycerin Scalp Leave On Lotion to the scalp, ensuring that you shake the bottle with your lotion to mix the base and glycerin well.<br />
3. For best results, carefully part hair and focus the application directly on the scalp and not the hair.<br />
4. Reapply the lotion to the scalp daily or at least 3 times a week<br />
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<b>Expected Results</b><br />
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You should see an improvement in scaling (dry skin) on the scalp any time from the first use to within 2 weeks of applying at least 3 times per week.<br />
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<b>The Science of the DIY 10% Glycerin Scalp Leave On Lotion</b><br />
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The study in Thailand was based on 274 people both male and female. The scientists chose not to go down the antifungal route that is commonly used to treat dandruff (i.e the commercial dandruff shampoos). Instead they chose to tackle the loss of scalp hydration that is seen with dandruff with a humectant (a product that draws water to itself).<br />
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You may therefore wonder if this is a permanent solution since they are treating the symptoms rather than the cause. This is a valid concern and to address this, the paper did say that after 8 weeks of following the regime, the study subjects were asked to stop and the dandruff flaking did not return in the following week (with no lotion used in that week).<br />
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For clarity, please note that the recipe above is not the exact one used in the study, there were other ingredients in the product including fatty acids and sunflower oil which were proposed as additional moisturising ingredients. If you wish, you can read the full study online - starting from pg 115!<br />
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<br />Jchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03983132094574128087noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8356365023823603303.post-82486556064478773292015-11-07T15:37:00.002+00:002015-11-07T15:37:58.895+00:00I am back and I have been busy<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />Jchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03983132094574128087noreply@blogger.com40tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8356365023823603303.post-37648378204095227122015-06-02T16:45:00.001+01:002015-06-02T17:47:54.480+01:00Is Lanolin a natural moisturiser for natural hair? A castor oil alternative?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Lanolin is essentially sheep sebum. Traditionally, sheared wool is simply boiled in water for a few hours and the lanolin rises to the top ready for scooping up.<br />
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Lanolin is actually not really a fat despite looking like one. It is technically considered a wax. It is quite different from the vegetable and fruit derived oils and butters such as coconut oil, olive oil, castor oil or shea butter. These oils and butters are true fats consisting mainly of fatty acids. Lanolin however is made mainly of <i><b>esters of fatty acids and even has some alcohols and cholesterol</b></i>.<br />
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<b>Q: Ah so much jargon! Why should I care if lanolin is a wax and coconut oil is not? What really is the difference between a fatty acid and an ester of a fatty acid?</b><br />
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The difference is that the ester version found in lanolin can actually hold water very well. Let me be clear, this does not mean that lanolin can dissolve in water well - it does not! It does mean that when you mix it with water, the water is attracted to it and can be trapped within it.<br />
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<b>Q: Aha, so is the trapping of water by lanolin what makes it moisturising?</b><br />
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Yes, this is part of what makes it moisturising. A second part is that at least with skin, it is known to be able to penetrate into skin cells and combine with water within those cells, once more preventing water loss. It is indeed possible that it may do the same with hair since both hair and skin (and wool!) have keratin as a key protein.<br />
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<b>NOTES ON USING LANOLIN</b><br />
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<b>1. Melting Lanolin</b>: Pure lanolin is a thick wax and it really does not melt as easily as a fat e.g coconut oil or shea butter. Pure lanolin does melt and become spreadable but you need to use a very small amount and really rub it between your fingers for a good solid <b>ACTUAL</b> minute. Slathering it on while it is still sticky and not spreading easily is NOT the business. If you are struggling, you can purchase liquid lanolin too but be aware that in order to stay liquid, some parts of the pure lanolin are extracted.<br />
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<b>2. Apply to either freshly washed or freshly misted hair:</b> If you are looking for a moisturising effect, make sure that there is water on your hair for the lanolin to use.<br />
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<b>3. Lanolin generally plays well with other oils or butters: </b>You can use lanolin in addition to another oil e.g if you normally use coconut oil to 'seal' your moisturiser, you can still apply this first and then top up with lanolin.<br />
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<b>4. Lanolin is an alternative to castor oil:</b> I have found that castor oil can be difficult to use for some naturals as it is too thick and sticky. If you are looking for something like castor oil but a little easier, then a thin layer of lanolin may just be what you need.<br />
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<br />
<i>Sources:</i><br />
<i>J Soc Cosmet Chem, pp 181-195, 1993</i><br />
<i>J Soc Cosmet Chem, pp 11-22, 1954</i><br />
<i>J Soc Cosmet Chem, pp 219-227, 1992</i><br />
<i>J Soc Cosmet Chem, pp 279-288, 1993</i>Jchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03983132094574128087noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8356365023823603303.post-2016097907226483812015-05-12T15:53:00.000+01:002015-05-12T15:53:51.555+01:00QFQ: How to stop hair gel from flaking<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eipuy00lEoE/VVINO530INI/AAAAAAAABpc/KA2ynZuHKX8/s1600/hair_gel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eipuy00lEoE/VVINO530INI/AAAAAAAABpc/KA2ynZuHKX8/s320/hair_gel.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
This article is a quick fire question from blog reader Bella who asks, '<i>Can you tell me why my hair gel flakes, sometimes I get actual gloopy balls and other times I get small flakes but somehow I cannot figure what I am doing wrong. Can you tell me how I can stop it from doing this?'</i><br />
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</b> <b>Q1: Why does gel flake?</b><br />
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There is one main reason that hair gel will flake and this is that the hair gel does not combine well with a previous product applied to your hair (e.g a hair conditioner or water based leave in).<br />
<b><br />
</b> <b>Q2: Isn't it a good thing to apply a hair conditioner or leave in before applying gel?</b><br />
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It absolutely is a good step to apply a hair conditioner or leave in before applying a gel. The purpose of a gel is to get hair strands to 'gel' together and this process can be drying which is why a water based product applied previously is useful. The general process for using a hair gel is<br />
<br />
1. Wet hair<br />
2. Apply a small amount of a water based conditioner or leave in to the wet hair.<br />
3. Apply hair gel<br />
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<br />
<b>Q3: So why does the hair gel not react well with the hair conditioner previously applied?</b><br />
<br />
Let me be clear, most hair gels will have a certain range of conditioners that they will work well with. However, the ingredients in some conditioners do react with ingredients in some hair gels to form these gloopy balls or flakes. <b>It is not the fault of the hair conditioner or the hair gel solely, it is more a case that the particular combination of the gel and conditioner does not work</b><br />
<br />
<b>Q4: How can I get the gel to work with the hair conditioner?</b><br />
<br />
This is the wrong question. If the gel flakes up then it is likely that it always will with that conditioner. In some instances minimising the amount of product used can work but in general, once you start to see those balls, the combination does not work. You can solve the problem by changing the hair conditioner or the gel.<br />
<br />
<b>Q5: But I really like my conditioner and my gel?</b><br />
<br />
Well, you are going to have to like them separately.<br />
<br />
<b>Q6: Can I test whether the conditioner and gel combination works before putting the products in my hair?</b><br />
<br />
Yes, just wash and rinse your hands, then place a small dollop of the conditioner in your hand followed by a small dollop of the gel and rub your hands together to mix. I even found a video where the vlogger has done exactly that!<br />
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<i><b><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/artbystevejohnson/6983058670/sizes/z/in/photolist-bD514h-akzFwe-8SuJnr-8fThDs-8fPYsX-9uT4MH-9uT4Ke-dVmEW2-8fPRQH-8fQ5xV-8fTbnY-bT9LTX-bxVB5o-cnbnRS-a5ZzHG-exg9t4-9agwix-bAm83Q-7xyD1Y-96Mbh9-9b9DtZ-dbRB9U-9DCK9D-ce2wK9-8v5Xvk-8v91w1-8v91gG-8v5XmR-8v91co-cLs1L3-cLs2mm-cLs3pw-85HG1F-9S7XJR-b1j2Sr-dgyscE-88gZpD-a4rSrx-7zn559-7N7rpx-cLs4B7-8v91oL-8v91ts-cLs3Yj-e572sG-bjxa4N-99ZGYW-dwPoij-dohH9T-dogEDh-dogEcy/">Image Credit</a></b></i>Jchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03983132094574128087noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8356365023823603303.post-13722026302751082192015-05-07T11:32:00.000+01:002015-05-07T11:32:23.184+01:00Hair Science: How well do mild cleansers really clean hair?This is a bit of a compilation piece. I have done some of these before and some for BGLH but finally I am putting all of them together right here!<br />
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<br />
<b>The Experiment</b><br />
<br />
I used my own shed hair (natural, African , 4c if you are into hair typing) and imaged it:<br />
-on its own without any washing<br />
- washed with shampoo only (2 minute water rinse, 2 minute shampoo wash, 2 minute water rinse and air dried for 4 hours)<br />
-washed with cleanser only ( 2 minute water rinse, 2 minute cleanser), 2 minute water rinse and air dried for 4 hours)<br />
-cleansers with extra time 10 minutes instead of 2 minutes - ACV, baking soda shikakai<br />
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<b>Quick Cleansing Results</b><br />
<br />
<table border="3" cellspacing="0.5" style="width: 600px;"><tbody>
<tr> </tr>
<tr> <td colspan="3" style="text-align: center;"><b>Ability of Hair Cleansers to Remove Oil from Hair</b><br />
<b><br />
</b></td> </tr>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><b>Best Cleansers (Complete visible oil removal)</b></td> <td style="text-align: center;"><b>Good Cleansers (vast majority of oil removed)</b></td> <td style="text-align: center;"><b>Worst Cleansers (little to no oil removal)</b></td> </tr>
<tr><td style="text-align: left;">Shampoo<sup><span style="font-size: xx-small;"></span></sup> </td> <td style="text-align: center;">Hair Conditioner</td> <td style="text-align: center;">Baking soda</td></tr>
<tr><td style="text-align: left;">Oat water<sup><span style="font-size: xx-small;"></span></sup> </td> <td style="text-align: center;">Castile soap (diluted)</td> <td style="text-align: center;">Shikakai</td></tr>
<tr><td style="text-align: left;">Natural soap/shampoo bar<sup><span style="font-size: xx-small;"></span></sup> </td> <td style="text-align: center;">Bentonite Clay</td> <td style="text-align: center;">Apple Cider Vinegar</td></tr>
<tr><td style="text-align: left;"><br /> </td> <td style="text-align: center;">Rhassoul Clay</td> <td style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>The Results</b><br />
<br />
<b>1. The Controls - Oily Hair (Dirty/Oily Reference) and Shampooed Hair (Clean Reference)</b><br />
<br />
The controls let you have a baseline of what the hair looks like prior to washing and what it looks like with a proper wash. You can therefore judge the clay washes in context of dirty and clean hair.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-twJOrqK5YYI/VUsxfTqwQSI/AAAAAAAABn4/WPlNMwO_fqI/s1600/oily_hair_3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-twJOrqK5YYI/VUsxfTqwQSI/AAAAAAAABn4/WPlNMwO_fqI/s320/oily_hair_3.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oily natural hair </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cpi5ioTmTH8/VUsxfc7nhMI/AAAAAAAABn0/GyeSOn-FVBM/s1600/shampooed_hair.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cpi5ioTmTH8/VUsxfc7nhMI/AAAAAAAABn0/GyeSOn-FVBM/s320/shampooed_hair.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clean shampooed natural hair</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>2. Hair conditioner only - Result: Mostly Clean Hair</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zqkCWgVknfI/VUszPAY4y2I/AAAAAAAABoo/XMVDg5S8CmE/s1600/co-washed_hair_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zqkCWgVknfI/VUszPAY4y2I/AAAAAAAABoo/XMVDg5S8CmE/s320/co-washed_hair_2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Co washing or washing hair with hair conditioner only does remove the vast majority of surface oil. Some small oil deposits are visible after a 2 minute cleanse as circled in white.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Oat water- Result: Clean Hair</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7nq_CZqWkMc/VUszk_S2yOI/AAAAAAAABow/uf2KPV1j7mM/s1600/oat_natural_hair_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7nq_CZqWkMc/VUszk_S2yOI/AAAAAAAABow/uf2KPV1j7mM/s320/oat_natural_hair_2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I recently theorised that oat water may be able to cleanse hair due to saponins released when they are boiled. This experiment showed that indeed the cleansing with oat water does work (Process - 1 tablespoon of oats to half cup of hot water. Oats boiled for approximately 2 minutes in water, allowed to cool and then oats sifted from water. Water is then used to cleanse hair.)<br />
<br />
<b>4. Castile soap - Result Mostly Clean Hair</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QA9420iZ0NM/VUsz6iTlIhI/AAAAAAAABo4/B7qr4tfWUVc/s1600/castile_soap_natural_hair_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QA9420iZ0NM/VUsz6iTlIhI/AAAAAAAABo4/B7qr4tfWUVc/s320/castile_soap_natural_hair_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
In this experiment castile soap was diluted 1:5 with water. It resulted in mostly clean hair with some oil deposits left (circled in red). Using undiluted or less diluted castile soap may result in complete oil layer removal. <br />
<br />
<b>5. Natural soap - shampoo bar - Result: Clean Hair</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1uvFxV4WNFU/VUs0nBBlT0I/AAAAAAAABpI/Nz_h4SLgPls/s1600/shampoo_bar_soap_natural_hair.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1uvFxV4WNFU/VUs0nBBlT0I/AAAAAAAABpI/Nz_h4SLgPls/s320/shampoo_bar_soap_natural_hair.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I used traditional soap (olive oil mixed with sodium hydroxide to make soap) and the result was clean hair comparable to shampoo. I would, however, just mention that soap may not be a mild cleanser as some people are more sensitive to its alkaline (high) pH. The same applies for castile soap above. <br />
<br />
<b>6. Baking soda - Result: Hair still oily</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WDKGF0v3SvU/VUsyscmsMtI/AAAAAAAABoQ/uXedWYEfLW0/s1600/baking_soda_wash_natural_hair_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WDKGF0v3SvU/VUsyscmsMtI/AAAAAAAABoQ/uXedWYEfLW0/s320/baking_soda_wash_natural_hair_2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<b></b><br />
<b></b><br />
Many naturals tout baking soda as a natural cleanser but in my experiment, it really did not cleanse at all. The hair was extremely oily even after a 10 minute soak and rub.<br />
<b><br />
</b> <b>7. Bentonite clay - Result: Mostly Clean Hair</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Vpl40Y567_s/VUsymwG5xpI/AAAAAAAABoI/nv1IhlKXyJ4/s1600/bentonite_clay_hair_wash.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Vpl40Y567_s/VUsymwG5xpI/AAAAAAAABoI/nv1IhlKXyJ4/s320/bentonite_clay_hair_wash.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Bentonite clay produced a similar result to conditioner washed hair. Hair was mostly clean with a few oil deposits (circled in white) left behind. The clay was applied to hair as a mask (water and bentonite clay mixed to a paste).<br />
<br />
<b>8. Rhassoul clay - Result: Mostly Clean Hair</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OQ7WgDs0rVY/VUszAPEwflI/AAAAAAAABog/fPlOKU-kVnE/s1600/rhassoul_clay_hair_wash.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OQ7WgDs0rVY/VUszAPEwflI/AAAAAAAABog/fPlOKU-kVnE/s320/rhassoul_clay_hair_wash.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<b> </b>Rhassoul clay equally produced a similar result to bentonite clay. Hair was mostly clean with some few deposits of oil<br />
<br />
<b>9. Shikakai- Result: Hair still oily</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UDboHPYL9HY/VUs0Olje2jI/AAAAAAAABpA/2VmPZMw3iBU/s1600/shikakai_natural_hair_3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UDboHPYL9HY/VUs0Olje2jI/AAAAAAAABpA/2VmPZMw3iBU/s320/shikakai_natural_hair_3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Shikakai is promoted as an ayurvedic cleanser. It is made from crushed acacia pods which contain saponins which are natural cleansers. In this experiment though, the shikakai paste did not cleanse hair well. Large deposits of oil were still present on hair. <br />
<br />
<b>10. Apple cider vinegar- Result: Hair still oily</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wrPsWd6UsiI/VUsy26pVTpI/AAAAAAAABoY/RSqJjH1cXZ0/s1600/acv_natural_hair.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wrPsWd6UsiI/VUsy26pVTpI/AAAAAAAABoY/RSqJjH1cXZ0/s320/acv_natural_hair.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Some naturals do promote apple cider vinegar as a natural cleanser. It did however produce the worst result of all the cleansers. The hair actually looked oilier than when it started despite prolonging the cleansing time. It did not cleanse the hair at all in this experiment.<br />
<i><br /></i>
<i>Additional Notes</i><br />
<i>Hair conditioner - L'oreal Eversleek Smoothing Conditioner, Shampoo - Johnson and Johnson baby shampoo, Oats - Quaker Oats, Baking Soda - Sainsbury's, Shikakai - Hesh, Apple Cider Vinegar - Sainsbury's, Bentonite and Rhassoul Clay - Sheabutter Cottage, Castile soap - Dr. Bronners, Natural Soap - Mother in Law made it.</i><br />
<br />
<i><i><b>Please do note that under the microscope we can see oil layers but
we do not see small deposits on hair e.g hair conditioner deposits
(well you actually could see them with specialised instruments but not
with my microscope!). Strictly speaking this experiment will answer the
question, how well will washing method X remove oil from hair.</b></i></i>Jchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03983132094574128087noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8356365023823603303.post-89565832178012778702014-11-13T20:03:00.001+00:002014-11-13T20:03:51.477+00:00Can your hair recover from heat damage? I get these questions quite often, so I am featuring this one today from blog reader D. She writes<br />
<i><br />
</i> <i>'So I feel like I have a unique situation. I have heat damage but it's not the kind you just trim off. The stylist actually weakened and compromised the integrity of my hair. Now that it's cooler it's even harder to keep my hair moisturized. I've added more protein in my regimen and I deep condition after every wash. Other than a wash n go, every other style stretches my curls and before my next wash day I'm left with straight pieces and waves all over, at least until I can get it into a long term protective style and re-transition back to my original curly coiled kinks. I feel like there's no hope for my pattern to return. Doc is there anyway to come back from heat,weakened damaged hair? why or why not?'</i><br />
<br />
I hate to break it to you but the <b>only permanent</b> remedy to heat damaged hair is a trim. Here is why<br />
<br />
<b>1. Your hair is Dead</b><br />
<br />
Once your hair emerges out into the visible area of your scalp, you are dealing with a dead fibre. It is dead because there are no active growing cells in it. The implication here is that this fibre can only ever either stay in the condition it is as it emerges or wear down over time. There are no active cells within that part that has emerged to fix any damage.<br />
<br />
<b>2. High heat makes physical and irreversible changes to your hair at a molecular level</b><br />
<br />
High or prolonged heat can physically and irreversibly change the natural structure of protein . Hair is made up of a protein called keratin. Keratin in hair has a natural twist in it called an alpha helix. This twist is present in all hair straight or curly. <b>If you heat keratin to around 215-235°C ( 419-455F) the alpha helix starts to melt</b>. This is a a physical change and it is irreversible, your hair will retain the shape of the melted keratin at a molecular level. Your hair shows you this molecular damage by not getting back into its natural curl or wave and staying straighter. <br />
<br />
<b>3. All damage to your hair is cumulative. </b><br />
<br />
Remember you have no growing cells in the dead part of the hair so if the cuticle is broken, it will stay broken. If you heat treat and damage the cortex, it stays damaged. Your hair conditioner and gentle treatment can help prolong the life of the damaged hair but ultimately it is damaged and the damage will continue to progress.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_GkQ08Dsvo30/SrJjLWQ58WI/AAAAAAAAARw/xpRjWsck-vE/s400/repair.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_GkQ08Dsvo30/SrJjLWQ58WI/AAAAAAAAARw/xpRjWsck-vE/s400/repair.png" height="400" width="385" /></a></div>
<br />
<b>4. Do you have to cut it off?</b><br />
<br />
If you can deal with the multiple textures and your hair is not breaking off in pieces, you can keep heat damaged hair. If the multiple textures are driving you insane, trimming is the only proven way forward.<br />
<br />
For more - <a href="http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2009/09/can-you-really-repair-damaged-hair.html">read this vintage article</a>Jchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03983132094574128087noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8356365023823603303.post-65003831058522376712014-11-11T23:03:00.001+00:002014-11-11T23:03:59.774+00:00Caucasian Hair Cleansing: Shikakai, Shampoo, Conditioner, Bentonite and more!I have been promising this post for a while! This is a repeat of the microscope cleansing experiments we did with my (African) hair but using my hubby's (Caucasian) hair. Here it is!<br />
<br />
<b>The Experiment</b><br />
I used my own shed hair and imaged it:<br />
-on its own without any washing<br />
- washed with one type of test cleanser only (2 minute water rinse, 2 minute test cleanser, 2 minute water rinse and air dried for 4 hours)<br />
- the test cleansers were plain water, shampoo, conditioner, bentonite clay, shikakai, apple cider vinegar (1:1 ratio with water) and baking soda. ACV and baking soda had an extended time of 10 minutes in the cleansing phase.<br />
<br />
<b>The Results</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>1. Oily hair</b><br />
<br />
My hubby shampoos his hair every 2-3 days and does not use conditioner or oil so his hair is pretty oil free. I therefore applied shea butter to his hair to create the oily surface needed for the experiment.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-etmOcJrVEVk/VGKPOn6YANI/AAAAAAAABlE/hs0Nj9KpB_c/s1600/normal_caucasian_hair.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-etmOcJrVEVk/VGKPOn6YANI/AAAAAAAABlE/hs0Nj9KpB_c/s400/normal_caucasian_hair.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'Unwashed' Caucasian hair which is relatively oil free due to frequent shampoo use</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--aGspqCf2AE/VGKPOXSTKVI/AAAAAAAABlA/_9lVv3JllsE/s1600/oily_caucasian_hair_shea_butter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--aGspqCf2AE/VGKPOXSTKVI/AAAAAAAABlA/_9lVv3JllsE/s400/oily_caucasian_hair_shea_butter.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oily Caucasian hair with shea butter used for this experiment</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>2. Water only wash</b><br />
<br />
The water only spread the oil around the hair strand but did not really clean it off.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PitXP72RL0M/VGKQHh9HDqI/AAAAAAAABlU/-uGV-SgzspA/s1600/water%2Bonly_caucasian_hair.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PitXP72RL0M/VGKQHh9HDqI/AAAAAAAABlU/-uGV-SgzspA/s400/water%2Bonly_caucasian_hair.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Oil spread over the strands in the water only wash </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>3. Shampoo only wash</b><br />
<br />
The shampoo wash as expected gave the cleanest most oil free strands.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qPX1ISzQeUs/VGKQiLTs1NI/AAAAAAAABlc/sFla-Y-N2xs/s1600/shampoo_caucasian_hair.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qPX1ISzQeUs/VGKQiLTs1NI/AAAAAAAABlc/sFla-Y-N2xs/s400/shampoo_caucasian_hair.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shampoo cleaned Caucasian hair</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>4. Conditioner only wash</b><br />
<br />
The conditioner wash gave mostly clean oil free hair with just tiny spots of oil visible<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CSpM0H4bmrM/VGKRVr3CVhI/AAAAAAAABlo/olqP8woEcWg/s1600/hair_conditioner_cleanse_caucasian_hair.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CSpM0H4bmrM/VGKRVr3CVhI/AAAAAAAABlo/olqP8woEcWg/s400/hair_conditioner_cleanse_caucasian_hair.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hair conditioner cleansed hair - mostly clean some oil circled in white</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b> 5. Bentonite clay wash</b><br />
<br />
The clay wash resulted in a very similar result to the conditioner wash. The hair was mostly clean with some oil visible. In this case subjectively there was more oil than with the hair conditioner. I have circled some of the more obvious bulges in white<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NOf1KiIZCCo/VGKSleQgHeI/AAAAAAAABl0/KUL-z8XkHtw/s1600/bentonite_clay_caucasian_hair_microscope.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NOf1KiIZCCo/VGKSleQgHeI/AAAAAAAABl0/KUL-z8XkHtw/s400/bentonite_clay_caucasian_hair_microscope.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bentonite clay cleansed hair</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>6. Shikakai </b><br />
<br />
Shikakai gave a somewhat clean result. Quite a bit of oil was still visible after the two minutes of cleaning.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RO78bOp3h0A/VGKT9iQ3gXI/AAAAAAAABmA/gG2NGBU5yVs/s1600/shikakai_caucasian_hair_microscope.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RO78bOp3h0A/VGKT9iQ3gXI/AAAAAAAABmA/gG2NGBU5yVs/s400/shikakai_caucasian_hair_microscope.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shikakai cleansed hair - not all visible oil is marked, just the more obvious spots</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>7. Apple Cider Vinegar</b><br />
<br />
The result with ACV was similar to water only washing, the oil just seemed to spread<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tlZf5PEFsUQ/VGKUbLJQrUI/AAAAAAAABmI/Y-6BAzMHa6Q/s1600/acv_caucasian_hair.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tlZf5PEFsUQ/VGKUbLJQrUI/AAAAAAAABmI/Y-6BAzMHa6Q/s400/acv_caucasian_hair.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ACV wash - oil spread over the strand, no real cleansing observed</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>8. Baking soda</b><br />
<br />
As with ACV, baking soda also seemed to spread the oil and not really clean the oil off the hair.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iXuQRhx5EmA/VGKU4ahXZgI/AAAAAAAABmQ/dAirxvPPgCg/s1600/baking_soda_caucasian_hair.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iXuQRhx5EmA/VGKU4ahXZgI/AAAAAAAABmQ/dAirxvPPgCg/s400/baking_soda_caucasian_hair.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Baking soda wash - hair remained oily </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<i>Additional notes</i><i>: </i><br />
<i>Running warm water was used for all washes. In each wash or rinse,
hair was rubbed gently to simulate normal hair washing. Hair
conditioner - Tresemme Naturals Conditioner, Shampoo - Herbal
Essences Dazzling Shine Shampoo, Bentonite Clay - Detox people, Shikakai - Hesh, Sainsbury's, ACV - Sainsbury's, Baking Soda - Dr. Oetker.</i><br />
<br />
<i><i><b>Please do note that under the microscope we can see oil layers but
we do not see small deposits on hair e.g hair conditioner deposits
(well you actually could see them with specialised instruments but not
with my microscope!). Strictly speaking this experiment will answer the
question, how well will washing method X remove oil from hair.</b></i> </i><br />
<br />Jchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03983132094574128087noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8356365023823603303.post-69469061846108298472014-11-11T16:34:00.001+00:002014-11-11T16:34:19.955+00:00Shikakai from the Supermarket!Well well, look what I found in Sainsbury's ( a UK supermarket)! Yes your eyes do not deceive you, shikakai being sold in Sainsbury's! It was one of the products in the unfortunate aisle as I call it (where they put stuff close to sell by date or damaged products)......and it is something I had wanted to experiment with! I will be doing a shikakai cleansing test today on some shed hair with some microscope results!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lLGg_8iutEk/VGI6GdnYTEI/AAAAAAAABkw/ZPDw4p8Vq00/s1600/shikakai_sainsburys.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lLGg_8iutEk/VGI6GdnYTEI/AAAAAAAABkw/ZPDw4p8Vq00/s400/shikakai_sainsburys.JPG" width="323" /></a></div>
<br />Jchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03983132094574128087noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8356365023823603303.post-68419992704786813082014-10-12T14:12:00.001+01:002014-10-12T22:56:00.037+01:00Curl Clumping in 4c hair : Bentonite Clay vs Hair Conditioner Take 2After the last post on <i><b><a href="http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2014/09/curl-clumping-in-type-4c-hair-hair.html">clumping curls in 4c hair,</a></b></i> many of you wanted to see a strict conditioner only vs bentonite only set of results. I have now had the chance to repeat the experiment and this is what I did.<br />
<br />
<u><b>The Experiment</b></u><br />
- My own hair - 7 inch segment cut from the crown area<i><b> <a href="http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2014/09/science-experiment-in-progress.html">(details here)</a></b></i>. This cut is selected for this experiment as all the hair comes from the same general area and should therefore clump if it can. Hair is kinky curly with very tight coils. I am not a fan of hair typing but most would call it 4c hair.<br />
<br />
<b>Experiment 1 - Shampoo + Conditioner + Rinse </b><br />
-Hair detangled first then shampooed (2 mins), rinsed (2 mins), conditioner applied (1 hr with heat) and imaged before being rinsed (2 mins) and imaged<br />
<br />
<b>Experiment 2 - Shampoo + Bentonite Clay + Rinse </b><br />
- Hair detangled first then shampooed (2 mins), rinsed (2 mins), bentonite clay suspended in water applied (20 mins) then imaged and one final rinse (2 mins) then imaged. <br />
<br />
<b>In both experiments the exact same hair swatch was used.</b> This is because I wanted to do a direct comparison on the same hair. You therefore see the effect of using either clay or hair conditioner. Additionally all hair was shampooed to remove traces of previous products.<br />
<br />
<u><b>Results</b></u><br />
<b>Experiment 1 - Shampoo + Conditioner + Rinse </b><br />
<br />
I placed the images of the hair in all the key stages in the image below. Hair conditioner for my hair (emphasis on my) does not really clump curls. It does start off the process and the hair strands get more orderly but there is no real curl clumping. The final rinse image can be expected to shrink down to the complete shrinkage state as the hair dries out.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mzLPpm9iTNU/VDp5e1LUzlI/AAAAAAAABj4/byKqGgjl3ao/s1600/4c_hair_experiment_conditioner_only.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mzLPpm9iTNU/VDp5e1LUzlI/AAAAAAAABj4/byKqGgjl3ao/s1600/4c_hair_experiment_conditioner_only.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Appearance of 4c hair from complete shrinkage, stretched and conditioned</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rofVM7V6YRE/VDp5eum-beI/AAAAAAAABj0/Q20gsnE05qc/s1600/hair_conditioner_4c%2Bhair.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rofVM7V6YRE/VDp5eum-beI/AAAAAAAABj0/Q20gsnE05qc/s1600/hair_conditioner_4c%2Bhair.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close- up view of the effect of hair conditioner on 4c hair - before and after rinsing</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<b>Experiment 2 - Shampoo + Bentonite Clay + Rinse </b><br />
<br />
I would normally always shampoo and condition before applying clay but I did the experiment with shampoo to cleanse followed by direct application of bentonite clay as some readers wanted to assess whether the clay on its own was actually responsible for the clumping result<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lcWLjSmuQ2w/VDp7jGaU3WI/AAAAAAAABkI/BD16itI1Vbg/s1600/4c_hair_experiment_%2Bclumping_bentonite_clay.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lcWLjSmuQ2w/VDp7jGaU3WI/AAAAAAAABkI/BD16itI1Vbg/s1600/4c_hair_experiment_%2Bclumping_bentonite_clay.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Curl clumping in 4c hair induced by bentonite clay</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U0cir0f4Rs8/VDp7jTIiJII/AAAAAAAABkM/JzwVh_lXF2Q/s1600/bentonite_clay_4c%2Bhair.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U0cir0f4Rs8/VDp7jTIiJII/AAAAAAAABkM/JzwVh_lXF2Q/s1600/bentonite_clay_4c%2Bhair.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close- up view of the bentonite clay curl 4c clumping effect - the image to the left shows hair with clay still on it and the one to the right shows the hair with the clay rinsed out. </td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
Please note that these are the results for MY hair. Your hair may behave differently. I also would not normally shampoo hair and then apply bentonite clay. I would always condition hair first because I find it easier to detangle with conditioner rather than with clay. These are MY preferences and you need to create rules for your own hair.<br />
<br />
<i>Additional Notes: </i><br />
<i>Conditioning time: In practise, I never usually use heat or condition my own hair for extended times 20- 30 mins at most, but in the interest of doing what many naturals do, I chose to apply heat and extend the conditioning time to the swatch. </i><br />
<i><br />
</i> <i>Products: Herbal Essences Dazzling Shine Shampoo, Tresemme Naturals Conditioner, Bentonite Clay from Detox People</i>Jchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03983132094574128087noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8356365023823603303.post-59675910800177768192014-09-11T11:27:00.003+01:002014-09-11T17:48:01.916+01:00Triethanolamine TEA in Gel - Is it a bad ingredient?Since I put up my analysis of the max hydration method, several of you have sent me additional links to questions that you have about the scientific analysis of ingredients and why they are drying. One of the pages sent to me was this one about<a href="http://forum.blackhairmedia.com/the-whole-scientific-truth-about-triethanolamine_topic369616_page1.html"> <i><b>triethanolamine</b></i></a>. There are numerous inaccurate statements within that article which I cannot tackle. I will therefore try instead to tell you about the ingredient itself and the research I have found about it.<br />
<br />
<b>1. What is triethanolamine?</b><br />
<br />
It is a base which does contain three alcohol molecules but it is not an alcohol. <br />
<br />
<b>2. Why is TEA found in gels?</b><br />
<br />
It is used to adjust the pH to a neutral region so that the gel can actually form. Most often you will find both TEA and carbomer listed. These two are the backbone of most commercial gels. The TEA is added to water to adjust the pH and carbomer (a polymer) helps to turn the liquid phase (aloe vera or water or both) into a gel. I found a video showing exactly this. <b>Do note how little TEA is required!</b><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="338" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/elGyAigTM5A?rel=0" width="600"></iframe><br /></div>
<b><br />
</b> <b>3. Does TEA form sodium hydroxide in gel?</b><br />
<br />
Honestly the chemistry when you have 5 or more ingredients is quite complex and it would be highly inaccurate to speculate on this without having done lab tests. Suffice it to say though that even if you directly added sodium hydroxide <i><b>(which can be done as it too is a base and we need the base to bring the pH to neutral!)</b></i>, this does not mean that your hair will be relaxed. The bottom line is that bases are used for pH adjustment for hair lotions, conditioners and gels which are not intended to relax hair.<br />
<br />
<b>4. IF there is sodium hydroxide in the gel, can it give you cancer?</b><br />
<br />
Currently, sodium hydroxide is not classed as a carcinogen. I say currently because information may change but so far, it is not known or listed directly as a carcinogen. This does not mean that it is safe and can be used willy nilly! In high concentration (e.g relaxers), it most definitely is dangerous and associated with skin damage but again not everyone who uses a relaxer ends up with burns, with proper precautions it can be used. <br />
<br />
<b>5. Does TEA contain nitrosamines and can this give you cancer?</b><br />
<br />
TEA can indeed contain nitrosamines and nitrosamines are known to be carcinogenic, this is widely accepted. However, cosmetic grade TEA from Dow Chemical Co. has previously been analysed independently and there was no detectable nitrosamine across several batches <i><b><a href="http://journal.scconline.org/pdf/cc1980/cc031n05/p00237-p00252.pdf">(J Soc Cosmet Chem, pp 237-252, 1980)</a></b></i>. The word 'detectable' is important because the instruments used can find nitrosamines if there is at least around a nanogram (1 billionth of a gram) present......yes really that little! Therefore if cosmetic grade TEA of a similar standing is used for the gel, it will probably have no detectable nitrosamine.<br />
<br />
<b>6. Is TEA safe?</b><br />
<br />
It is up to you to decide for yourself. In the same way that it is up to you to decide whether parabens are safe or not. I only provide the information :)<br />
<br />
If you are worried about nitrosamines then do read up more on frying meat, eating smoked and preserved meat e.g bacon etc as if you have these regularly, your hair gel should be the least of your concerns. <br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>7. Do I (me, Jc) use TEA?</b><br />
<br />
Yes, I am currently liking aloe vera gel (a commercial one) with TEA and preservatives. It would be nice to use the plant leaf directly but that is filed under too much work for me. I also have no issues with parabens or formaldehyde precursors as preservatives..........I say this just so you can see where I lie in the spectrum :) <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
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<br />Jchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03983132094574128087noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8356365023823603303.post-76349676420182243272014-08-07T14:59:00.000+01:002014-08-07T21:12:14.534+01:00The Myth of Natural Hair Products As a scientist, I am actually very liberal with the word natural and my view is that everything <br />
has a natural origin. However, I am deeply aware that most consumers when purchasing a product from a company using the words for curly hair, botanical, natural or organic, there is an expectation of many natural <b>unadulterated</b> ingredients. Many consumers choose to trust companies but in truth it is often more about marketing rather than genuine differences in content.<br />
<br />
Today is an exercise in learning to read product labels not as the manufacturer wants you to, but rather as they really are.<br />
<br />
<b>What are we doing?</b><br />
<b>1. Delete all extracts - often constitute 1% or less of the product</b><br />
<b>2. Delete all advertising words e.g organic, unrefined, raw, fresh, unnecessary wording</b><br />
<b>3. Focus on the top 5 ingredients only - often constitute 80-90%+ of the product </b><br />
<b>4. IF you are avoiding something specifically read the full list </b>.<br />
<span style="color: red;"><b><br />
</b></span> <span style="color: red;"><b>SPOILER ALERT - Whether the product is considered organic/natural/for curly hair or not, an almost uniform trend emerges and notably many of the ingredients chosen are made in the lab (marked with</b></span><span style="color: red;"><b>†)</b></span><br />
<br />
<table border="1" cellspacing="0.5" style="width: 600px;"><tbody>
<tr> <td><div style="text-align: center;">
<b>Type of Ingredient</b></div>
</td> <td><div style="text-align: center;">
<b>What it does</b></div>
</td> <td><div style="text-align: center;">
<b>What is typically chosen</b></div>
</td> </tr>
<tr> <td><span class="cdJSEnabledText"><b><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;">Emollient and Stabiliser </span></b></span></td> <td><span class="cdJSEnabledText"><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;">Softens hair, helps oil and water in conditioner mix instead of forming separate fractions</span></span></td> <td>Cetyl alcohol†, stearyl alcohol† or the fusion cetostearyl alcohol†</td></tr>
<tr> <td><span class="cdJSEnabledText"><b><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;">Surfactant</span></b></span></td> <td>Smooth cuticle, softens hair and also helps oil and water fractions in conditioner mix</td><td>behentrimonium methosulfate† or behentrimonium chloride†</td> </tr>
<tr> <td><span class="cdJSEnabledText"><b><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;"> Oil</span></b></span></td><td>Adds Slip, softens hair</td> <td>Shea butter or silicone based oil† </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>1. Aubrey Honeysuckle Rose Conditioner</b><br />
<i>(Ingredient list clarity rating 5/5)</i><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hChc-KzcJJc/U9iy6dzXfTI/AAAAAAAABgE/oMqjM4phPGk/s1600/aubrey_new_packaging.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hChc-KzcJJc/U9iy6dzXfTI/AAAAAAAABgE/oMqjM4phPGk/s1600/aubrey_new_packaging.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a></div>
<b><i><span style="color: red;">Summary: Clear list. Has a lot of alcohol, fragrance is high up on the list. </span></i></b><br />
<b><i><span style="color: red;">Key ingredients - cetyl alcohol and shea butter</span></i><i><span style="color: red;"> </span></i></b><br />
<br />
<b>As you should read it:</b> Aqua, Cetyl Alcohol, Alcohol Denat. (38B, Lavender), Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Fragrance<br />
<br />
<b>As Listed: </b>Aqua, Cetyl Alcohol<strike> (From Coconut),</strike> Alcohol Denat. (38B, Lavender), Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter*, Fragrance, <strike>Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice*, Glycerin, Rosa Rubiginosa (Rosa Mosqueta®) Seed Oil*, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil*, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil*, Argania Spinosa (Argan) Nut Oil*, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Extract, Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Calendula Officinalis Extract*, Chamomilla Recutita (Chamomile) Flower Extract*, Melissa Officinalis (Balm Mint) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Chrysanthemum Sinense Flower Extract, Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Flower Extract, Magnolia Biondii Bud/Flower Extract, Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Angelica Archangelica Root Extract, Foeniculum Vulgare (Fennel) Seed Extract</strike><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>2. Kinky Curly Knot Today</b><br />
<i>(Ingredient list clarity rating 0/5)</i><br />
<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7jOS0CkN_Gg/U9ZsD19G9NI/AAAAAAAABfg/Wn2ky0YmFtw/s1600/kinky_curly_knot_today_ingredients.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7jOS0CkN_Gg/U9ZsD19G9NI/AAAAAAAABfg/Wn2ky0YmFtw/s1600/kinky_curly_knot_today_ingredients.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a><b><b><i><span style="color: red;">Summary: Ingredients list is not clear - no water on the listing, Question the listing! </span></i></b></b><br />
<b><b><i><span style="color: red;">Key ingredients - cetyl alcohol and behentrimonium methosulfate</span></i></b></b><br />
<b><b><i><span style="color: red;"> </span></i></b> </b><br />
<b>As you should read it: </b>Cetyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Methosulfate<br />
<br />
<b>As listed:</b><strike> Organic mango fruit extract, organic slippery elm, organic marshmallow root, organic lemon grass, </strike>cetyl alcohol, behentrimonium methosulfate,<strike> citric acid, phenoxyethanol and natural fragrances</strike><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>3. Beemine BEEUTiFUL Moisturizing Deep Conditioner</b><br />
<i>(Ingredient list clarity rating 4/5)</i><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9R1n28g_Gkk/U-N8zn5lF3I/AAAAAAAABgg/ITfKzUho4v4/s1600/BeeMine_DC.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9R1n28g_Gkk/U-N8zn5lF3I/AAAAAAAABgg/ITfKzUho4v4/s1600/BeeMine_DC.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a></div>
<b><b><i><span style="color: red;">Summary: Generally clear ingredient list except preservatives are not named.</span></i></b></b><br />
<b><b><i><span style="color: red;">Key ingredients - cetearyl alcohol , behentrimonium methosulfate, shea butter and coconut oil</span></i></b> </b><br />
<br />
<b>As you should read it :</b> Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium methosulfate, Shea Butter , Coconut Oil<br />
<br />
<b>As Listed:</b> <strike>Distilled </strike>water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium methosulfate, <strike>Organic Unrefined </strike>Shea Butter , <strike>Organic </strike>Coconut Oil, <strike>Cupuacu Butter, Calendula Extract, Chamomile Extract, Organic Raw Honey, Paraben and Formaldehyde Free Preservative, Fragrance (Phthalate Free)</strike><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>4. Aveda Damage Remedy Intensive Conditioner</b><br />
<i>(Ingredient list clarity rating 3/5)</i><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1i1CKR6q-zk/U-N-MxTO3hI/AAAAAAAABg0/nYupfaGB9Vo/s1600/Aveda+Damage-Remedy-Restructuring-Conditioner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1i1CKR6q-zk/U-N-MxTO3hI/AAAAAAAABg0/nYupfaGB9Vo/s1600/Aveda+Damage-Remedy-Restructuring-Conditioner.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a></div>
<b><b><i><span style="color: red;">Summary: Ingredient list has a lot of marketing words, extracts are prominently listed, contains quite a few silicones </span></i></b></b><br />
<b><b><i><span style="color: red;">Key ingredients - cetearyl alcohol , cyclopentasiloxane, stearalkonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride</span></i></b></b><br />
<br />
<b>As you should read it</b>: Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Stearalkonium Chloride, Behentrimonium Chloride<br />
<br />
<b>As listed:</b> <strike>Aqueous (</strike>Water, <strike>Aqua Purificata, Purified) Extracts: Hippophae Rhamnoides Extract, Medicago Sativa (Alfalfa) Leaf Powder, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Extract, </strike>Cetearyl Alcohol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Stearalkonium Chloride, Behentrimonium Chloride, <strike>Phenyl Trimethicone, Quaternium-80, Glycerin, Stearyl Alcohol, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Fusanus Spicatus Wood Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Hordeum Distichon (Barley) Extract, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Tocopherol, Babassuamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate, Dimethicone, Dimethiconol, Behenamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate, Dicaprylyl Maleeate, Dimethiconol Meadowfoamate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Polyquaternium-10, Fragrance (Parfum), Limonene, Linalool, Citronellol, Citric Acid, Sodium Gluconate, Methylcholroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone.</strike><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>5. Jessicurl Deep Conditioning Treatment</b><br />
<i>(Ingredient list clarity rating 3.5/5)</i><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-50EAi6GeoB8/U-N_LzE0NlI/AAAAAAAABhA/Ka-O5RT0ALc/s1600/jessicurl_deep_conditioning_treatment.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-50EAi6GeoB8/U-N_LzE0NlI/AAAAAAAABhA/Ka-O5RT0ALc/s1600/jessicurl_deep_conditioning_treatment.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a></div>
<b><b><i><span style="color: red;">Summary: Extracts prominently listed but otherwise a fair ingredient list</span></i></b></b><br />
<b><b><i><span style="color: red;">Key ingredients -behentrimonium methosulfate, cetearyl alcohol, shea butter and avocado oil</span></i></b></b><br />
<br />
<b>As you should read it: </b>Water, Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil<br />
<br />
<b>As Listed:</b> Water<strike> infused with Equisetum Maximum Lam (Horsetail), Mentha Piperita (Peppermint), Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary), Laurus Nobilis (Bay Leaf), Ocimum Basilicum (Basil), Arctium Lappa (Burdock Root), Althaea Officinalis (Marshmallow Root), Origanum Vulgare (Oregano), Cymbopogon Flexuosus (Lemongrass), Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme), Salvia Officinalis (Sage) and Urtica Dioica (Nettle),</strike> Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, <strike>Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice Powder, Soy Lecithin, Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate</strike><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>6. Shea Moisture Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner</b><br />
<i>(Ingredient list clarity rating 3.5/5) </i><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ymgeHVWNKQI/U-PcvZruInI/AAAAAAAABhc/hNwuMPrf9CE/s1600/shea_moisture_raw_shea_butter_restorative_conditioner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ymgeHVWNKQI/U-PcvZruInI/AAAAAAAABhc/hNwuMPrf9CE/s1600/shea_moisture_raw_shea_butter_restorative_conditioner.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a></div>
<b><b><i><span style="color: red;">Summary: Ok list, some marketing terms and emulsfying wax (which can be cetearyl alcohol or polysorbate) is not defined.</span></i></b></b><br />
<b><b><i><span style="color: red;">Key ingredients - shea butter, argan oil, coconut oil, behentrimonium chloride</span></i></b></b><br />
<br />
<b>As you should read it: </b>Water, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea butter), Argan oil, coconut oil, Behentrimonium chloride<b> </b><br />
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<b>As Listed:</b> <strike>Deionized </strike>water, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea butter)*, Argan oil, coconut oil*, Behentrimonium chloride, <strike>essential oil blend, vegetable glycerin, emulsifying wax, sea kelp extract, Panthenol (vitamin B-5), avocado oil, Lonicera Caprifolium (honeysuckle) flower and Lonicera Japonica (Japanese honeysuckle) flower extract, Tocopherol (vitamin E) and Daucus Carota Sativa (carrot) seed oil. *Denotes certified organic ingredients</strike><br />
<br />
<b>7. For arguments sake , here is what is considered a non natural product</b><br />
<b> Herbal Essences Hello Hydration Moisturizing Conditioner</b><br />
<i>(Ingredient list clarity rating 5/5)</i><br />
<span id="goog_816476059"></span><span id="goog_816476060"></span><br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r1YIcnvfGJ8/U-OAFFJIn8I/AAAAAAAABhM/so95NciPbiE/s1600/herbal_essences_hello_hydration_ingredients.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r1YIcnvfGJ8/U-OAFFJIn8I/AAAAAAAABhM/so95NciPbiE/s1600/herbal_essences_hello_hydration_ingredients.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a><br />
<b><b><i><span style="color: red;">Summary: Clear list, some water soluble silicones included</span></i></b></b><br />
<b><b><i><span style="color: red;">Key ingredients -stearyl alcohol , behentrimonium chloride, cetyl alcohol, bisaminopropyl dimethicone</span></i></b></b><br />
<br />
<b>As you should read it:</b> Water , Stearyl Alcohol , Behentrimonium Chloride , Cetyl Alcohol , Bis Aminopropyl Dimethicone<br />
<br />
<b>As Listed: </b>Water , Stearyl Alcohol , Behentrimonium Chloride , Cetyl Alcohol , Bis Aminopropyl Dimethicone , <strike>Zea Mays (Corn) Silk Extract , Orchis Mascula Flower Extract , Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Extract , Fragrance , Benzyl Alcohol , Disodium EDTA , Sodium Hydroxide , Methylchloroisothiazolinone , Methylisothiazolinone , Blue 1</strike><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>There you go, learn to eliminate marketing hype and read the ingredients that are actually working on your hair!</b>Jchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03983132094574128087noreply@blogger.com26tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8356365023823603303.post-13499201713008281272014-07-30T10:08:00.003+01:002014-07-30T10:14:47.403+01:00Midweek Gossip: Aubrey Organics now just Aubrey?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hChc-KzcJJc/U9iy6dzXfTI/AAAAAAAABgA/SUi3pmVXzmo/s1600/aubrey_new_packaging.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hChc-KzcJJc/U9iy6dzXfTI/AAAAAAAABgA/SUi3pmVXzmo/s1600/aubrey_new_packaging.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a></div>
Does anyone have a link as to why Aubrey has decided to drop the Organics part of their label? Rumour* has it that this is a forced change as Whole foods in the US now has a requirement that in order for a product to be labelled as organic, <b> 95%</b> of the content must be certified organic. The alternative is that a product can be labelled as 'made with organic ingredients' but not plainly organic if <b>70%</b> of the content is certified organic.<br />
<br />
Therefore brands like Aubrey Organics, Avalon Organics or Giovanni Organic Hair Care are forced to drop the Organic part of their names as they do not meet the standard. <br />
<br />
I can see that Aubrey websites are still currently having the organics moniker <i>(website traffic can drop with a name change) </i>but all the products are currently just labelled as just Aubrey.<br />
<br />
<b>Anyone have some more details for us?</b><br />
<br />
*Yes, I even cite my rumours lol - <i><b><a href="http://www.nowtoronto.com/columns/ecoholic.cfm?content=175985">Now Toronto</a></b></i>Jchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03983132094574128087noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8356365023823603303.post-21843520722393623842014-07-29T10:08:00.001+01:002014-07-29T10:16:52.223+01:00Soapnut: A natural fruit shampoo from a tree<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ld0vojbXVgs/U9aDYOvYwEI/AAAAAAAABfs/bw_2OjawZj0/s1600/soap_nuts_natural_shampoo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ld0vojbXVgs/U9aDYOvYwEI/AAAAAAAABfs/bw_2OjawZj0/s1600/soap_nuts_natural_shampoo.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a>One of my best friends who is from Thailand is responsible for this post. She first told me about this a few months ago as she was doing some research into making a natural shampoo as part of her Thai traditional medicine course.<br />
<br />
<b>Q: What are soapnuts?</b><br />
<br />
Soapnuts are fruits from a shrub that grows in parts of Asia and the Americas. Alternative names include soapberry and sapindus. The fruits are dried and then boiled to release a natural detergent for washing <i>(Ind. Eng. Chem.,pp712-713, 1939)</i>. The detergent is used not just for washing hair but also even more 'serious' tasks such as laundry.<br />
<br />
<b>Q: Really can you just boil a dry fruit and get shampoo?</b><br />
<br />
For those of you who read my oat and bean water shampoo article, this will not come as a surprise to you. Soapnuts naturally contain a chemical known as saponin (sounds a bit like soap!). Saponins are detergent like in behaviour because they are amphiphilic.<br />
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<b>Q: Amphi...what?</b><br />
<br />
Amphiphilic means that on a single molecule you have both a part that is attracted to water and a part that is attracted to oil. <i><b>Why is this important? </b></i>It all boils down to the fact that oil and water do not mix, and in order for oil to be removed (i.e cleansing to occur), you need a molecule that can attach to oil and at the same time force it to mix with water so that it can be rinsed off. Therefore you need both a water loving and oil loving part on the same molecule. <br />
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If you are a visual learner, here is an old diagram, showing you how SLS behaves, the process with saponins would be similar in principle except of course that saponins from soapnuts are a little larger and can be extracted by you boiling the dry fruit. <i>(If you want more details, read how surfactants work in full -<a href="http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2010/06/myth-or-fact-sulfate-shampoo-causes.html"><b> here</b></a>). </i><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g4YmrN5E6Xg/Suck34aE5yI/AAAAAAAAATo/WHQ36mxv2hA/s1600/shampoo+wash.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g4YmrN5E6Xg/Suck34aE5yI/AAAAAAAAATo/WHQ36mxv2hA/s1600/shampoo+wash.png" height="400" width="376" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Demonstration of how hair cleansing works from a chemical perspective</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b>Q: What is the pH of the soapnut shampoo water?</b><br />
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I have not done any experiments myself but I have seen some commercially extracted saponin with a pH of around 4-5when dissolved in water.<br />
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<b>Q: Ok, so you really are saying we can boil some dry fruit and use that water to wash you hair?</b><br />
<br />
I am indeed, here is a helpful video guide!<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="338" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/FZQW_yQ0aUM?rel=0" width="600"></iframe><br /></div>
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<b>Have you heard of or have you used soapnuts? What is your experience, does it clean well? Have you done a pH test?</b>Jchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03983132094574128087noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8356365023823603303.post-84530566507363567402014-07-28T16:34:00.000+01:002014-07-31T12:46:16.738+01:00Bad Ingredients Label: Kinky Curly Knot Today<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7jOS0CkN_Gg/U9ZsD19G9NI/AAAAAAAABfc/mYbl6pPVcPM/s1600/kinky_curly_knot_today_ingredients.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7jOS0CkN_Gg/U9ZsD19G9NI/AAAAAAAABfc/mYbl6pPVcPM/s1600/kinky_curly_knot_today_ingredients.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
So, you must know by now that I really dislike it when products are badly labelled. This is most common in the natural hair industry with small start ups who are keen to keep their ingredients as a trade secret. However, I am actually mightily surprised that a company as large as Kinky Curly is up to some <strike> trickery</strike> creative labelling. <br />
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This is the ingredients label on Kinky Curly Knot Today<br />
<b><br />
</b> <span class="cdJSEnabledText"><b><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;">Organic mango fruit extract, organic slippery elm, organic marshmallow root, organic lemon grass, cetyl alcohol, behentrimonium methosulfate, citric acid, phenoxyethanol and natural fragrances </span></b><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;"> </span><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;"> </span><b><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;">Q1. Where is the water?</span><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;"> </span></b><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;"> </span><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;">If you have read previous instalments on the law of <a href="http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2010/05/product-labelling-law.html"><i><b>product labelling,</b></i></a> you will have heard me harp on about why water should almost always be the first ingredient in a hair shampoo or hair conditioner. I am very perplexed as to how this apparently water based moisturiser has no water, when water can often constitute 80% or more in such a product and should be the <a href="http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2010/05/why-do-first-five-ingredients-on-hair.html"><i><b>first listed ingredient</b></i></a>. </span><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;"> </span><b><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;"> </span></b><b><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;">Q2. What if you (Jc) are wrong and this product is just concentrated and has little water?</span></b><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;"> </span><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;"> </span><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;">Honestly, you should hope that I am right and the water has been omitted. Why? Cetyl alcohol and behentrimonium methosulfate are solid pellets that need to be dissolved. If that list as printed is correct then this is not a water based conditioner but an alcohol based one with phenoxyethanol as the only possible solvent on the list<b> (To be clear, I think that water has been omitted and phenoxyethanol is a preservative)</b>.</span><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;"> </span><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;"> </span><b><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;">Q3: But the Kinky Curly Website says their products do not contain alcohol or silicones</span></b><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;"> </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span class="cdJSEnabledText"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c_zHDLExQFI/U9ZqIvyV0cI/AAAAAAAABfQ/gWajTifwcqk/s1600/kinky_curly_alcohol_free.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c_zHDLExQFI/U9ZqIvyV0cI/AAAAAAAABfQ/gWajTifwcqk/s1600/kinky_curly_alcohol_free.jpg" height="98" width="600" /></a></span></div>
<span class="cdJSEnabledText"><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;"> </span><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;">Sorry, but-<i><b> phenoxyethanol</b></i> which is declared on the label is of alcoholic origin <i>**(please read the comments for clarity on aromatic ether alcohol/ glycol ether vs alcohol)</i>. Perfectly legitimate as a preservative and sometimes used as a solvent just as an alcohol. </span><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;"> </span><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;"> </span><b><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;">Q4. But it has so many organic and natural ingredients</span></b><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;"> </span><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;"> </span><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;">I don't think so <i>(my opinion)</i>. I am totally against listings of herbal extracts in water at the top of the list. This is often because only small amounts are used <i>(do note that if large amounts were used, the colour of the product would end up more along a brown or green colour - similar to the colour of bark/leaf)</i>. This product is white so my theory is that those herbal extracts have a very minor role on the hair but a major role on you as the consumer. </span><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;"> </span><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;"> </span><b><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;">Q5: So what really is in the bottle?</span><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;"> </span></b><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;"> </span><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;">In my honest opinion, I sincerely doubt that we have the full ingredient list. I am fairly certain that water has been omitted and additionally, I also think that oil may also have been omitted from this list.</span><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;"> </span><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;"> </span><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;">Here is the breakdown of the declared ingredients:</span><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;"><br />
</span></span><br />
<table border="1" cellspacing="0.5" style="width: 600px;"><tbody>
<tr> <td><div style="text-align: center;">
<b>Ingredient</b></div>
</td> <td><div style="text-align: center;">
<b>What is it?</b></div>
</td> <td><div style="text-align: center;">
<b>How much would typically be found in a hair product?</b></div>
</td> </tr>
<tr> <td><span class="cdJSEnabledText"><b><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;">Organic mango fruit extract, organic slippery elm, organic marshmallow root, organic lemon grass,</span></b></span></td> <td><b>Herbal Extract</b> (Normally drop a few herbs in water or oil or alcohol as the solvent, wait for a few minutes/hours, sieve out the herbs, use the water to make the product)</td> <td>Generally less than <b>1%</b></td></tr>
<tr> <td><span class="cdJSEnabledText"><b><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;">Cetyl alcohol</span></b></span></td> <td><b>Emollient </b>(softens hair), <b>Thickener</b> (makes conditioner more gloopy instead of it being overly liquid)</td><td>Around <b>5%</b></td> </tr>
<tr> <td><span class="cdJSEnabledText"><b><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;"> Behentrimonium methosulfate</span></b></span></td><td><b>Surfactant </b>(Smooths down cuticle, reduces static, softens hair)</td> <td>Around <b>5%</b></td></tr>
<tr> <td><span class="cdJSEnabledText"><b><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;">citric acid, phenoxyethanol </span></b></span></td> <td>Both act as <b>preservatives</b> - citric acid is a weak fruit derived acid that stops products going rancid, also adjusts pH slightly and phenoxyethanol is an alcohol which can also be a <b>solvent.</b></td> <td><b>Depends on the formula</b> - can be effective from as little as <b>0.1%</b> but sometimes much more is added to improve shelf life or kill more microbes</td></tr>
<tr> <td><span class="cdJSEnabledText"><b><span id="long_Mx2WIRD2LRICZWQ" style="display: block;">Natural fragrances </span></b></span></td> <td>Could really be <b>anything</b>! Manufacturers are not required to define what the fragrance is</td> <td>Should not be much (under <b>1%</b>) but can be e.g when some manufacturers use fragrance to disguise other ingredients</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>So if you total up the percentages of expected amounts of the declared products - you get to around 12%. If you even decide to be generous and make it 20 or even 30%....what is the undeclared 70-80%?</b><br />
<br />
<b>The thing I fail to understand is that kinky curly knot today is by all accounts a very much loved product by many naturals, why does the manufacturer feel inclined to have a very poor and even possibly misleading label? </b>Jchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03983132094574128087noreply@blogger.com36tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8356365023823603303.post-46342611188982534312014-07-07T13:54:00.001+01:002014-07-07T14:04:52.436+01:004c Hair: How much detangling do you really need to do?If you have 4c hair and have chosen a exclusive dry finger detangling method, you will know that it is very easy to end up spending hours on your hair. I was therefore intrigued when I found this video of the<a href="http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2014/01/4c-natural-hair-case-study-jennifer.html"> <b><i>Long 4c Case Study alumni Jennifer</i></b></a> and I had to verify if this level of detangling is all she does. <br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-srgiL-PI3q0/U7qZYGUIYWI/AAAAAAAABeM/zEmFX7q8ugg/s1600/hair_tweet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-srgiL-PI3q0/U7qZYGUIYWI/AAAAAAAABeM/zEmFX7q8ugg/s1600/hair_tweet.jpg" /></a></div>
<script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//platform.twitter.com/widgets.js"></script></div>
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Here is the video showing Jennifer's (<i><b><a href="https://twitter.com/bootyfurl">@bootyfurl</a></b></i> on twitter) simple under 10 minute detangling process:<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="338" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/a6PvGpZOxV4?rel=0" width="600"></iframe><br /></div>
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I think I may try this less involved method for general detangling especially when I am not intending to do major styling. I would still keep my standard more involved detangling for when I want to create multiple parts e.g for own hair braids. My method is virtually identical to <i><b><a href="http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2014/02/long-4c-natural-hair-case-study-chery818.html">Long 4c Case Study alumni Chery818</a></b></i><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="450" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/a4Ti2Gv8T0Y?rel=0" width="600"></iframe></div>
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<b>So would you try the short approach or would you be worried that your hair may end up matted?</b>Jchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03983132094574128087noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8356365023823603303.post-72070067334361658922014-07-04T13:06:00.001+01:002014-07-07T13:14:03.404+01:00Max Hydration Method: Can you get 4c hair to have clumped curls/ringlets?The max hydration method (mhm) makes a big bold promise of getting type 4c hair to get its natural coils into clumped up curls. Are you curious? I love scrutinising things so here is my analysis of the method.<br />
<b><br />
</b> <b>What is the max hydration method?</b> <br />
<br />
The author of the method Pinke Cube sent me some notes on the method. She is active on <b><i><a href="http://forum.blackhairmedia.com/the-max-hydration-methodfrom-my-other-post_topic368937_page1.html?KW=THE+MAX+HYD">black hair media</a></i></b> so do go there if you want more details. Here is a video of an mhm afficionado Ms.Dee Kay explaining part of the method in a few soundbites; there are different versions of the method, she is explaining what is regarded as a routine for a regular user.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="338" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/V0WjCHX3mGs" width="600"></iframe><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<b>What other versions of the method exist?</b><br />
<br />
I am going to be lazy here and tell you to click on the previous link to black hair media. I also believe an e-book will soon be available with further details. The one major addition that I can say is that a modified Cherry Lola treatment is recommended for beginners. If you do not know what that is.........here it is.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="338" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/25HCH6zN-7E" width="600"></iframe><br />
</div><br />
<b>Does the max hydration method work?</b><br />
<br />
There is evidence that the method works although the group number is small (about 10) - <b><a href="http://www.pinterest.com/maxhydration/max-hydration-method/"><i>testimonial page</i></a></b>. There is a lot of emphasis that for success, this method has to be done regularly and consistently - repeated daily/ every 2-3 days. Additionally a curly girl route is recommended with elimination of products containing sulfates and silicones and users saying that using a standard shampoo/conditioner does not replicate the results.<br />
<br />
<b>Should I be concerned about the high pH of the baking soda/ Will it relax my hair?</b><br />
<br />
Baking soda dissolved in water has a pH of around 8/9 and certainly while I do recommend that the mild acid to neutral range (5-7) is better, pH on its own is not sufficient to relax hair and hair is pretty resistant to change within the pH 4-9 range - (<a href="http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2010/06/can-baking-soda-or-castile-soap-relax.html"><b><i>jog your memory</i></b></a>)<br />
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<b>Do baking soda or ACV actually clarify?</b><br />
<br />
If you are a high/heavy oil user then the likely answer is no. I base my answer on <a href="http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2014/07/can-you-wash-your-hair-with-baking-soda.html"><i><b>my previous mini study </b></i></a>of baking soda/ACV cleansing. If you are only lightly oiling on occasion and washing your hair daily as required in this method then<i><b> maybe </b></i>the result is different.<br />
<br />
<b>Can this method damage my hair?</b><br />
<br />
I am generally not for daily washing of hair as it introduces a lot handling wear and tear to hair. Additionally there is <a href="http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2013/08/could-air-drying-actually-damage-your.html"><i><b>one study</b></i></a> that has linked prolonged hair wetness to damaging the inner cuticle cement that holds the cuticle layers together. However, many people are able to daily wash and still continuously grow long hair, so you have to analyse the long term effects for yourself.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9NwAnIGtvNU/UhpK8fGU1mI/AAAAAAAABJw/KCaxelrUkr8/s1600/multiple_hair_cuticle_layers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9NwAnIGtvNU/UhpK8fGU1mI/AAAAAAAABJw/KCaxelrUkr8/s1600/multiple_hair_cuticle_layers.jpg" height="251" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Each cuticle is made up of several layers</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wGI08v1G4lk/UhpK8ScD4GI/AAAAAAAABJs/PPs4Z-TZ8JI/s1600/cell_membrane_complex_hair.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wGI08v1G4lk/UhpK8ScD4GI/AAAAAAAABJs/PPs4Z-TZ8JI/s1600/cell_membrane_complex_hair.jpg" height="286" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Each cuticle layer is 'glued' with a fat layer/cuticle cement in yellow</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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<b>Does hair really get more hydrated than normal with the max hydration method?</b><br />
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There is no study done to show the level of water in the hair before and after the max hydration method. Ultimately though, hair has a limited amount of water that it can accept and it will generally reach this limit within 15 minutes of immersion in water. I do not believe that hair gets more hydrated, but what I think is possible is that the moisture levels in hair are not allowed to drop far down and balance out with humidity. The hair is almost constantly surrounded by water with a regular washing cycle combined with the use of a leave in conditioner and gel layer to further prevent moisture loss between the cycles.<b> </b><br />
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<b>Are there any downsides?</b><br />
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If you are lazy like I am, this method is not for you. You have to be ready to spend quite a bit of time washing your hair and if necessary overnight conditioning, steaming and the baggy method can come into play. I do not have the will to sit with conditioner on my head for more than 10 minutes, so count me out. However if playing with your hair for hours is your thing......this method will give you satisfaction.<br />
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<b>What about shrinkage and long hair, will it still work?</b><br />
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This method requires you to embrace your shrinkage fully. This is generally true for curl enhancing methods. I have not seen anyone with particularly long hair use the method, so I cannot tell you how well it works for long 4c naturals. Here is Pinke's own video, she has longer hair than Ms. Dee Kay<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="338" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/mGr2F2LIObE?rel=0" width="600"></iframe><br />
</div><br />
Here is another video from Protective Princess who was suggested as a long 4c natural by Pinke, she discusses in depth on shrinkage, knotting, tangling and curl clumping.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><iframe width="600" height="338" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/mWSVrrXYUbI?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div><br />
<b><br />
</b> <b>So will you be trying the max hydration method?</b><br />
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Jchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03983132094574128087noreply@blogger.com56